Local food musings, recipes and fun from Ann Tindell Keener.
Now on Ann’s blog page — Ann’s Local Food Letters.

The Boilin Lake

I would have never gone if it hadn’t been for Bruce.  Well, I might have gone, it was something I wanted to do when I first came here but I’d heard stories since then- most of which were partially true.  They involved boiling streams, wandering from the path and getting blown up by exploding ground swells, steep cliffs, hot sun, and something called the Valley of Desolation.  But Bruce REALLY wanted to go.  The week before was filled with Boiling Lake talk such as  “If we go up and down this path forty times (a steep path down to the ocean- maybe a fifteen minute walk) it will almost be like going to the Lake, Well bye guys I’m off to the Lake (really the village)”, but mostly it was just the words “Boiling Lake!” thrown in every conversation or quiet moment.   I think this is a great way to prepare oneself for things and I plan to take it up for the next big thing I do in my life.   Bruce has got some years on me and also didn’t have the ‘leg up’ Mike and I have from walking the huge guard dog Eevie twice a day like we have the past month or so.   I swear I’m in better shape now than I have ever been in my life but still the Boiling Lake was daunting.  But Bruce was so enthusiastic and brave about it that we all jumped on board and followed him to the city to prepare for the next day….

I’ll skip the city and the cruise ships docked there and plunge right into 5:45 the next morning when we woke up after (some of us had) a rough night with a crowing rooster and barking dogs; Dominica city sounds.  We met our guide Haigan and packed him into the car.  We then drove (he said) twenty minutes, although it felt like at least forty-five, up and down and around on roads paved, gravel, and half paved half gravel.  We finally arrived at the trail head feeling rather ill.  And off we were on a rather gentle little trail up through the forest with giant ferns and lizards and thousands of prehistoric looking trees.  Gradually we began to slope down towards the Breakfast River- watching for parrots and listening to Hagian tell stories of trips he’d taken before.  Recently he took three men who were heading towards sixty up and it took them from eight o’clock AM til eleven o’clock at night to get back- which set the fear of Boiling Lake afire in us skeptics (everyone but Bruce) once again.   But by the time we had gone down the steep trail to the ravine where the Breakfast River flowed, drank from it (yes Grandmama I did drink from a river and I hope to God it doesn’t kill me eventually), and ate some peanut brittle we were ready to roll.  It was about eight o’clock and we were an hour in.

So back up the other side of the ravine we went, heading towards some now hidden peak that shadowed our destination, the smell of sulfur creeping around in the air. When Ann, Bruce’s wife, asked how long and how far away we were Haigan replied- Don’t think about that, think about NOW.  See where you are now and enjoy it.  We will get there when we get there and you will enjoy that then.  I decided right then and there that my new policy would combine both Bruce and Haigan’s wisdoms and I would begin shouting Live in the Present, Don’t Worry about the Future, Notice the Beauty of Now so the Future may be Just as Beautiful! at random intervals.  

Now this path was a little steep but there were still nice broad steps and every time my legs began to burn the path would even out for a bit.  But we were gradually crawling higher and higher.  Every now and then there would be a breathtaking view of surrounding mountains, the sea, valleys,  and birds soaring through the sky.  It was a clear day and even as we ascended into the peaks the clouds only blew through and did not stay.   This country is truly so beautiful that it makes my heart beat a little harder and sometimes I want to sing as loud as I can.  Fortunately I am not a cartwheel turner because I would not longer be here to tell this tale if I were.   After we had climbed up for another hour or so we came to a little path on top of a ridge.  I still can’t grasp the fact that that is actually all it was- a little path on top of a ridge.  It was a small dirt path lined with beautiful waist high moss that was covered in teeny flowers, ferns, and bushes.  I swear I saw a little fairy wink at me from behind a plant that looked like seaweed rooted from the sea and set atop this mountain.  But on either side of those lovely mosses there was nothing- just a straight drop down into the gorge.  I have this awful fear of heights that makes my toes tingle and my stomach churn when I stand on a third story balcony.  But for whatever reason I had no fear on that path- even with Haigan’s stories of the man he was hiking with who bent over to take a picture and slipped and Haigan had to grab him by his boots and pull him back up (this story was much more involved and horrific but I won’t get into it as it ended well and that’s all that counts).  I think it must have been the ferns, moss, and Haigan’s sure expertise (he was in his own sixties at least I think but I had faith he would get us back before eleven o’clock pm).   We walked along this trail for awhile and then came to a large clearing/overlook where we took pictures,  drank water, and (I) relieved ourselves and prepared for the straight downhill path from there. 

The trail should have been a ladder, it would have made as much sense.  When I stood on one step the previous steps were just behind my back.  And these steps were logs set into the soggy ground, some missing, some leg-lengths apart, but still steps.  They were an addition of seven years ago.  Before that Haigan said he would help each person down this slope (which curved on and around much farther than I could see) and go back up for the next.   Going down is rough on the body and I was carrying a backpack which somehow threw off my center of balance.  This trail was cut into the ridge side with the bluff by my left hand and nothing by my right.  I felt like I was tipping forward at every step and was glad when both feet met the slippery rounded stair each time I went down.  When I wasn’t worried about somersaulting down the stairs I wondered what it was going to be like going back up.  

We spent about forty-five minutes on that section of the path before we rounded the corner and came out into the Valley of Desolation.  We had to clamber down a few rocks and into a smoldering sulfury valley where a yellow boiling stream wound it’s way back into the woods below.  There were spewing holes of water, gurgling white ponds, iridescent yellow rocks streaked with blue, and a bubbling pit of grey clay where we all had our volcanic face masks applied from the tip of a stick, still hot from the ground.

Once we were through the valley we went back up on the mountain trail, it was hotter and drier here but still wooded.  We walked along a milky white hot sulfur stream and back up and down and around til we came out once again in a rock valley where the Boiling Lake’s steam loomed ahead.   We walked along the trail through the heath-like plants and came around the corner to behold the Lake in the cater of this mountain we had traveled and it was truly Boiling.  A huge steady boil rose out of the center and could be seen when the mist blew away for a moment.  I asked Haigan how many times he had done this hike because it seemed to me that he still looked at the land around him with awe and true love and he replied, I wouldn’t be surprised if it were thousands.

We sat down to eat our hiking snacks, the usual sugar, fat, salt crowd that hangs around backpacks hoping for a ride to boiling lakes.  Our collection included the much sought after Cheetos- a force that helped drive Bruce through some of the steeper uphill climbs as he shouted The Cheetos! much like he had chanted the lake’s name the week before.  Also, as I have promised to mention in my Local Food Letter, we had Ginger Nut cookies with peanut butter.  Ginger Nuts are a British cookie in those long cylindrical packs that have a gingersnap flavor and texture and no sign of a nut.  We fixed that by adding our own peanut butter.  It you ever go to the Boiling Lake this is a must in your snack collection.   So we ate these things and drank water and ate candied coconut and salted peanuts and Ann lay on the rock with her legs up in the air to prepare for the return journey.  She was the most skeptic of us all but lead the pack the whole way there and back and I think the leg trick may have something to do with that (not to mention her true energy and joy in every moment the whole trip). 

As we turned back I found myself caught between feeling tired and dreading the return and excitement at getting to do it all over again but backwards.  Haigan said he once had someone come back to hike with him because she could not stop dreaming about it.  I can completely understand the feeling and am certain that every one of our dreams carries of a little wisp of fog from the mountains of Dominica. 

And so we turned back.  We meandered though the dry brush and stopped to soak in a warm sulfur pool in the stream that ran alongside the trail.  The waterfall rushing into it served as a silky strong massage for the soles of our feet and our tight shoulders, calves and thighs.  The trail back up to the overlook was as steep going up as it was coming down but my center of gravity had returned and every step came as it came and we crawled slowly back up the mountain and slowly back down. We crossed over the Breakfast River and were back up on the now seemingly cushy path through the lush forest.  My legs were shaky but my heart was laughing.  I saw a sunlit leaf smile, nod, and wave to me as I passed by and if my toes weren’t so sore I might have skipped.  We had all stopped speaking by then and the birds were alone to sing their screeching, squeaking, soaring whistling songs.  As we got to the end we heard a new roar- the cruise ship crowd roar.

At the beginning of the trail there is a cold blue pool that comes from a cave in the mountains.  If you swim inside with rocks to the end you find a deep waterfall rushing down from it’s home up higher.  Back out at the pool there is a stream of warm water from the volcano above.   The pool was full of very white people tied to life preservers who were screeching and squeaking a new song.  But they soon left and we swam into the pool with our tired sore legs and back to the waterfall.  Mike and I climbed on a rock and looked at the ferns and trees looming overhead and then plunged back into the chilly waters and swam out into the sunshine and ate some chocolate on the rocks outside.  The whole hike was like a beautiful story that came and rolled with perfect tempo- ending with chocolate, cold blue water, and a great sense of accomplishment and strength.

The next day we had recovery yoga overlooking the ocean and didn’t do a whole lot of nothin’ else.

Recipe- How to Roast Coffee Like a Cowboy

I can buy green coffee bean at the farmer’s market here for $5 ec a bag.  That’s about $2 for a one pound bag.  I don’t think coffee drinking is the rage here- there isn’t enough need to be caffeinated.  I don’t know what type of beans they are but I don’t suppose cowboys do either.  They are local and shade grown and that’s about all I care.  The first few times I roasted them they ended up tasting like somewhere between hotel coffee and gas station coffee.  But somehow I have perfected this make-do method and my beans are rich, dark, oily, and fragrant.  They aren’t exactly evenly roasted but I’ve learned to live with that.

Perfect Cowboy Roast

-One cast iron skillet
-One wooden spoon
-One well vented kitchen
-Enough coffee beans to fill the skillet one layer high- they should not be too packed in because it will be impossible to roast evenly at all

Put the skillet on a burner turned on high (or you could use a fire if you are serious about the cowboy thing).  Add the green beans to the still cold skillet and let it heat, constantly stirring them.  You could also do this in a lighter skillet with a lid and constantly shake it over the flame- popcorn style.  I only had cast iron and have learned to make it work.  

Continue to stir until the ‘first crack’, meaning when they start popping like mad.  You will know you have reached the first crack by the huge amount of satisfaction you feel.  It is usually as the beans begin to brown.

After the first crack still continue to stir- making sure all the beans are getting evenly swished around the pan.  The faster and more thouroughly you stir the better.  You might want to turn the heat down a little by now.  I think it is supposed to be a steady 500 degrees but I never check it.

Once they start browning the husks will begin to come off and create a whole lot of smoke.  If there are other people around it is important to tell them what you are up to before you begin, just in case they think you are burning the house down.

Conitinue cooking and stirring.  When the beans are just about the right color (but a hair lighter), dump them in a collinder and immediatly start shaking it and blowing on the beans.  This cools them down and also allows the stray husks to fly away.  When they are cooled let them flow through your hands and make sure no papery husks still cling to the beans.  Just rub them off with a towel if they are not gone, but they should be.

You can let the coffee get as dark as you want- only remembering it will be a little darker after you take them from the pan because they are still hot and roasting.  A light roast is sometime after the ‘first crack’ and a darker one is right after the ‘second crack’ (guess what that means).  The second crack is hard to tell with this method though because the beans roast slightly unevenly.

Let the beans sit twenty four hours before brewing to release CO2.  I put them in a glass jar and leave it open til the 24 hours passed.

Grind them up and enjoy….

The Butcher, the Baker, and the Candlestick Maker

Being here on this little island between the Atlantic and the Caribbean has taught me a lot of things.  I’m sure it didn’t mean to but it has done the job well.  I feel like I am have grown a lot being here and I think it is from the simple fact that I have plenty of time on my hands to just THINK.  For the most part this has been very positive and has made me so much more aware of myself and where I want to fit in back in my community at home.

Life on Dominica is actually pretty similar to the stereotypical life of the Southern US.  They have the small-town mentality in ways both good and bad; everyone knows everything about everyone else (this can be a great thing if you are a newcomer and make the right friends in the beginning, it is impossible to make bad choices about friends or employees if you have half an island advising you), most people don’t leave the island, much less their village, cooking is very steadfast and traditional, families are close, children run around in the street and play on the beach by themselves, religion is strong, and people throw trash out and let it wash back up on the beach.  If you went to a small town in Tennessee forty years or more ago this is pretty much what you’d find there (except maybe the trash, I think that is a more modern habit).  Most people have a garden or know someone who does, the men work hard and the women cook and clean (although many young people are leaving, especially the women, for overseas education and jobs)  But the two things that are the most like the stereotype of the Southern US is that the people are very friendly and hospitable, and the personal space is much smaller.  People just show up at each other’s house to sit on the porch and watch the cars drive by.    The way to announce you are coming over is to shout as you walk down the driveway.  The island is so small you can’t help but bump somehow.   But I really got to thinking about this space thing after I wrote my last letter about the Portsmouth Market.

I was trying to imagine a market like the one here (large, loud, bustling, hot, no clear signage, etc) working in Chattanooga for all different types of people.  The people I had the hardest time imagining fitting in were people from my own social class- the mainly white, middle class, educated one.     And I said to myself “why? Is it the heat, the loudness, the complete casualness (I’ve seen vendors sitting with friends who are taking nips of local rum), the fact that you have to actually stop and get to know the farmer in order to find out where their food is grown, how much it costs, what their name is, and where they are from?  Is it the amount of time you have to spend buying your weekly vegetables and fish? My class of people seems to think we no longer have time for ANYTHING- even feeding ourselves home cooked meals- something that I wasn’t even aware I actually believed until I came here and discovered that I have time for anything I want to have time for. Of course having nothing but time helps a good bit.

But then I got to thinking about how I started my last letter-  I started by saying that I don’t like crowds of people.  Really, if you forced me to admit it I would probably have said straight out that I-don’t-like-people.  Which isn’t entirely true at all and sounds horribly antisocial and I would never actually mean.  But when I thought about it I discovered that although I don’t NOT like people I don’t feel completely comfortable with them.  Which is ridiculous in case you hadn’t already thought that because I AM one of those beings.  Of course there is a difference between being somewhat self reliant and/or enjoying being alone (something that some people are almost incapable of for whatever reason and that I have defiantly never had a problem with) and actually not being able to socially interact at all because you are too timid or antisocial.    And then it struck me that THIS is why the market wouldn’t work.  Because people would be too intimidated to stop and go right in to a real social interaction with people they don’t understand or know (if you truly understand farmers then you are actually a farmer and don’t have to worry about buying your food)  It is strange to think that our society is pushing us two ways- in one way it has become hyper important to have lots of friends, be very outgoing and extroverted, and to socially interact in business and at work constantly.  The other way has pushed us straight out of interactions with strangers.  At home, if I wanted to, I could probably go for weeks and weeks living almost the same lifestyle I live now and never actually interact with another human I don’t know.  I could go to the grocery and get all my food and go straight the self-checkout without ever having to say hello or smile at a soul (actually I don’t shop at stores that have those so that’s a lie), if I needed to mail something I just have to drop it in the box (that is assuming I actually mail things like bills and letters still- something that is totally possible to avoid),  if I wanted new clothes, to go used book shopping, buy some nice chocolate, or to rent a movie I could do that all from the chair in my living room on my computer- I don‘t even have to talk on the phone.  The other day Mike made an interesting observation- he said that you can buy anything you could possibly want directly from the individual, but over the internet (I think he was looking at hand screen printed tee shirts on organic cotton or something).  So that means if I wanted a tailor to sew me clothes made from fibers that has been grown sustainably and bought fair trade, or a hat maker to make me a hat, or a handmade bagel with organic flour, or a bead making book I could order my clothes from the guy, my hat from the lady, my bagels from the fella, and my book from the author.  To find those things in Chattanooga might actually not only be impossible but also take days and days.  And who has time for that?  In fact, who has time to peddle their products to one measly town when you can go world-wide?    But I am veering from my point (although I totally am a humongous advocate for the good-old-days when you could walk down Main Street and find the butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker (we’re just waiting on the ol butcher on our Main St)).  My point is that if you are like me and tend towards shyness that it is not only very possible to live a solitary life but also might even be richer in some senses than one you tried to support solely on human interaction- especially if you live in a small budding southern city.  But why did this happen?  People are not by nature solitary beings.  The only reason a strong culture and community exists is because of rather intense and regular social interaction.  Imagine a community where you don’t personally know the men and women who grew the food you are feeding yourself and children, where you’ve never seen the land the cotton for your clothes grew on, where the man who makes your hats doesn’t take a tape measure and measure around your head, where your doctor doesn’t have time anymore to stop and listen, where the teacher isn’t interested in the way your child thinks, where your children no longer play outside with other children but inside with devices you might not be able to explain how they work, where you and your brothers and sisters and children no longer spend time with your grandparents and listen to what they learned and have to share from their long lives on this earth, and where your own self is suddenly too busy to shop from all these shops, know the owners, talk to your neighbor,  or cook two solid (at least) meals a day and you can‘t figure out why. 

Here in Dominica people have plenty of time for all those things but the sad truth is that the clothes are from sources unknown, the candles are not so nice- and certainly not local, the bakers have dwindled to a few large companies, and the butcher with his cleaver at the open air market is being pushed over by imported meat products.  Of course, as I have written before, the poorness and isolation of this country protects it from the true horrors that might be lurking around trying to consume innocent communities and cultures.  But maybe this is a small part of why no one has jobs.  The largest amount of jobs here seem to be either in government or farming.  But everyone still visits with their brother, buys food from their farmers, shops at the small village grocery (where you know the owner and his family by name),  and has time to sit around and laugh. 

Although my social life here has dwindled from hanging-on-by-a-thread to almost non-existent I have learned that if I plan to survive in this community I have to look people in the eye and interact directly with them, something that is surprisingly hard for me.  I  can’t just read the signs, follow the directions, and feel my way around (whether it be hike, beach trip, carrots, or a paintbrush I want).  I have to meet a real live person and ASK; what is a good trail to walk here, how do I get to a beach, how much do these carrots cost, or where in this dimly lit rum bar/grocery/hardware store/pharmacy do you have paintbrushes?  And as terrifying as it may seem to ask such a simple question of a complete stranger from a culture unfamiliar to your own, the answer is more often than not even more helpful than you expect.  I might learn about a BETTER beach than the one I knew of, or a new way to cook carrots, or that the paintbrushes are right THERE, in between the lentils and the screwdrivers! (by the way, would you like a shot of rum with those brushes?).    And nobody reacts the way I’d expect, which is to laugh in my face and tell me that I am extremely stupid.  I have been ignored but you learn to not let that hurt your feelings, you just move on the next person.  Of course, I am not a super pro at this bold human interaction and if the opportunity is there to pass it off to a fellow human I will do it.  But I am much less timid than I was when I came and I am beginning to wonder what it was that made me uncomfortable in the first place.  And what is it that makes us as a society so shy of our communities?  I am sure it came about from lack of “time” but where did all that time go and what is it going to give our culture?  

Now that I am aware of all these things I know what I am going to give to my culture and community.  I am going to give myself and not be so unsure that anyone will want it. I am going to explore our community and go out of my way to meet groups of people I have never ventured to spend time with, people who share a similar mindset but have slightly different driving passions. I am going to invite more people to my house and get to know the people I interact with everyday a little better.  Because there is nothing to lose and only a whole lot to give.  And I am going to find someone who is interested in making me clothes.      

Recipe- Yellow Fin Tuna with Mango Salsa and Babaganoush and Carmelized Onions and Tomatoes

Tuna is the most common fish to be found lately.  They sell it by the whole fish and you tell them “I want five pounds (or whatever)” and they cut you a hunk with a cutlass and throw in on a scale in the back of the truck- this whole thing happens on the back of a truck on wooden planks.  There is no loin, side, or belly- it’s just the whole round of a tuna- they start at the top and work down to the tail.  So I have little cleaning up to do.  I just cut it into steaks and throw most of it in the freezer.  I know that tuna is being wildly over fished and I hope that I am not doing too much damage by supporting its capture.

Tuna Steak Topped with Mango Banana Salsa

For two people

-Two 6-7 ounce tuna steaks-as fresh as possible (if you aren’t by the ocean you shouldn’t be eating fish anyway unless you have some serious hook up- like a friend who drives from the coast with fish in a cooler full of ice)
-A smidgen of Coconut or Olive oil
-Some kind of juice for marinating- orange, passion fruit, sorrel (hibiscus tea- a holiday (and my own) favorite here.


Marinate the steaks in the juice while you make the salsa (recipe below).  Heat a skillet with the smidgen of oil til smokin hot.  Take tuna out of the marinade, dry it off, and throw in the skillet.  Brown on either side and then turn the heat down to medium and let cook til you like it.  I like it a little rare- it will still be bouncy when you touch it.  As it cooks it becomes more flaky feeling to the touch.  If it is actually fresh and has been marinated for a minute it will take a while to dry out and become unbearable so don’t worry if you cook it past your desired temp.  I just say cook it til you think it’s ready, poke a knife into a piece if you have to to check out the inside and serve it up.  Top with thinly sliced avocado if you wish and Mango Banana Salsa

  
Mango Banana Salsa


-One banana- ripe but not too soft
-One mango- very ripe
-One small tomato
-One small onion (or half a large)
-Juice of half a lime
-Hot peppers if you so desire and have them on hand (I didn’t)
-Salt

Dice the banana, mango, tomato, and onion.  Mix in the lime juice and a pinch of salt to begin.  Taste and add lime and salt if needed (if it tastes bland and flat add a little of both.  If your fruit is not local there is a good chance it will taste bland and flat forever so a bit of hot pepper and more tomato might be in order).  The mango does not need to hold its shape because it should be so ripe it’s smooshy.  Don’t over mix though because you want some chunks for interest (unless you don’t- in which case do over mix)

Babaganoush-ish
I can’t really remember the last recipe I’ve seen for babaganoush- I just use what I have on hand and blend it to a paste and call it babaganoush.  I do always roast the eggplant and garlic but sometimes I also roast some red peppers or onions with that and I’ve even roasted hot peppers.  More often than not I also don’t have herbs to go in or I don’t have parsley….  If I have paprika I add it, as well as cumin.  I use lime juice if I don’t have lemon….  The main ingredients I stick to are:

-Three medium eggplants- any kind works
-Four cloves garlic- whole, skin on
-3/4 cup tahini
-Juice of half a lemon (or lime)
-Olive oil 
-Salt
-And any of the above- raw garlic (this I usually add),cumin, paprika, herbs (oregano, parsley, basil, and thyme all work well), onion, roasted peppers… if you are not worried about tradition anything will be wonderful

Cut the eggplants in half and put them on an oiled pan with the garlic and into a hot oven- 400 degrees F will be just fine.  Roast until the eggplants are shriveled and squishy- you could broil them to blacken the skins.  I personally like the skins in the dip so I prefer not to burn them.  I think it is more traditional to char them as they usually have been cooked in a fire- it does add a nice smoky flavor.  Put the eggplant in a food processor- you can slip it out of the skin or not.  If they are big and have tough skins I would take it off but usually I just leave it on.  Squeeze the garlic from its skin and add it to the eggplant.  Add lemon juice, a clove more raw minced garlic, tahini, a pinch of salt, and a drizzle of oil- and anything else you’d like- remember to roast all the vegetables if you are adding new ones.  Blend it til smooth and taste.  Add whatever you need.  Sometimes you can make it perfect first try and sometimes you have to add things several times before it it right- just follow your taste and be careful.  Add more garlic for zing, cumin for earthiness,  tahini for another earthy taste and creaminess, oil to thin it out (or even water is fine), lemon or lime as an acid, and especially salt to enhance everything.  It is a true miracle when you reach that perfect point where the salt itself brings out every flavor- too little and there will be dominate tastes and too much and all you taste is salt- just go slow but don’t be shy.

Caramelized Onions And Tomatoes

-2 onions -sliced thinish
-2 tomatoes- sliced
-pinch of sugar 
-pinch of cumin
-1/2 pinch of coriander
-drizzle of coconut oil
-salt

Heat the oil in a skillet on medium heat.  Add the onions and cook til soft and wilty.  Turn the heat up and  add cumin, coriander and tomatoes.  Sprinkle on the sugar and a little salt.  Cook til tomatoes release their juices and everything gets brown and yummy smelling.

Serve everything with fresh handmade pita- or other flat bread (although pita is nice because you can make little pockets with both ingredients in them). 

   

 

 

Recipe- Multitasking with Lemon, Ginger, and Chocolate

The other day I heard about this ginger, coconut milk, chocolate drink from my friend Ashley.  She’d had it in Asheville, NC and I thought, what better place to make that than here in Dominica where every ingredient can be local?   At the same time I was requested to make ginger lemonade.  I had to sweeten both drinks with a little something and since they both were to be flavored with ginger I thought- why not make some candied ginger and use the syrup?  I don’t know quite where the sugar I used came from (although from the infamous past with sugar down here I could be fairly certain it is at least regional (the sugar is nice, it is processed very little and has a rich molasses taste) but everything else came from either the woods by beach or the farmer’s market.

Candied Ginger

Take a few roots of the freshest ginger you can find (here it is is usually straight out of the dirt- I thought for the longest time that when ginger was woody it was just from an older plant.  I think I am coming to realize that it is has been sitting around longer above ground and more dried out- or maybe both are correct.  Either way, if the skin looks really thin and pale (almost watery) and when you break off a piece you don’t see any tough fibers then you have the perfect hunk of candying ginger).  Peel the ginger with either a knife or a peeler- if it is rather twisty it is actually easier to use a paring knife.  Cut the ginger either into thinish slices or 1/4 inch chunks (I cut mine into chunks).  Dissolve sugar into an equal amount of water (I used a cup of each for about a cup of ginger- you want to ginger to be submerged but no more than that).  To dissolve the sugar heat over low heat- stirring.  If the water boils before the sugar is dissolved you are in big trouble so don’t let that happen.  Once the sugar is dissolved add the ginger and cook on medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the bubbles have turned from big to very fine and in little clusters.  If you get a little of the syrup on a spoon and let it drip off the drip should hang for a second in a nice syrup string.  Or you can drop a little bit into a cup of cold water.  If it forms into a ball when you move it around with your finger it is ready.  Don’t stir too much now because the sugar will start to crystallize- you want it to stay a thick syrup.  Now you can either just leave the ginger in the syrup until you are ready to use it (it should get very thick as it cools) or do what I did.  I scooped all the ginger pieces out with a fork and tossed them in sugar and let them dry on a paper bag.  I saved the syrup (I watered it down a teeny bit) for…

Lemon-Tangerine-Ginger-Ade

There are these really great lemons here that are as big as oranges and look like they have some kind or horrible bumpy skin condition.  They look so funky and I was surprised when the farmer said it was a lemon.  I bought them and took them home and it’s the honest truth- it really is a lemon…  I had also bought some sub-par tangerines (they are usually very juicy, sweet and seedy but these were just seedy and rather dry- not good for eating but the juice was very nice) and thought they would be good in this juice to add a little sweetness without sugar.

Squeeze three lemons and two tangerines.  Mix with water until it tastes right to you (I mixed it with about four cups of water)  Sweeten with ginger syrup to taste (it is always a little surprising how much sweet you need to make lemons less shockingly sour.  If you feel like you have used enough sugar but it’s still not sweet enough, switch to honey). Serve over ice.  Don’t forget to save a little of the ginger syrup for….

Chocolate Coconut Ginger Milk

At the market here you can buy sticks of chocolate- or coco, as they call it.  It is made simply from pounded cacao seeds that have been fermented, dried, and roasted.  I had a few pods awhile ago but just went as far as to get the nibs out and roast them (I made a coconut ginger coco nib candy- but although that sounds the same as this story, it’s not).  Here all of it is just shaped into logs with no added sugar or other flavoring.   It is pretty astringent and the coco logs are very coarse but it works perfectly for an extremely stimulating cup of hot chocolate.   I recently found a man in the market who sells coco logs and vanilla.  There are a lot of women who have little bags of their hand ground coco but this was the first vanilla I’ve seen.  I used the seeds from my first bean in sugar cookies and threw the pod in a bottle of rum to be used later…. 

I make coconut milk myself from coconuts we gather down at the beach (either ones already on the ground or knocked down from the trees)-  that is also another story and I will tell it again sometime because since I last told it I have developed a new method (much easier of course)

- Two cups fresh coconut milk
- One cup finely grated unsweetened coco
- Half a cup of boiling water
- Ginger syrup

You can cook the coco in the coconut milk but I prefer to just steep it in the boiling water til cool (to melt the chocolate) to avoid the possibility of the milk curdling.   Whisk the two together and add syrup to taste.  It should be fairly sweet just from the coconut milk.  If it is sweet enough but you want more ginger, just grate a bit of fresh ginger into the mixture.  Be careful though- ginger is very strong and you don’t want to be accused, as I have, of using it medicinally in everything (that means I overdo it)…  If you serve this right away it is fine just as it is.  If you prefer to chill it (I do) then put it in the blender before serving.  This breaks up any solidified coconut fat and also makes this amazing frothy head on the milk.  Serve as an afternoon pick-me-up or as a special treat at night if you are planning on staying up awhile.

Recipe- Pumpkin and Pink Bean Soup and Sweet Potato Fries

“Pumpkin” here isn’t what we call pumpkin but it is a very bright orange hard squash that works just as well.  I use it in almost everything (obviously).  Pink beans are these small beans that look like little pintos but are pinkish- almost red but not really.  They are SOOOO good and if we have them at home I can’t believe I’ve never eaten them.  I don’t even know what we’d call them- they have an amazing texture- very full, rich and satisfying.  Of course any bean would work just as well…..
 

Pumpkin and Pink Bean Soup

-1 cup dry pink beans, soaked overnight and boiled with one chopped onion, four cloves crushed garlic, and a pinch of whole cumin seeds until soft- throw in a little salt at the very end(takes 30 minutes to an hour and a half- depending on the beans and how long they were soaked)
-1 good sized wedge of pumpkin (maybe enough for 4 cups)- chopped into 1/2 inch cubes
-Chicken, vegetable, or maybe even beef broth (about 6-8 cups)
-1 sprig rosemary- de-stemmed and chopped
-Salt and Pepper

Cover the chopped pumpkin in broth, bring to boil with a generous pinch of salt and reduce to simmer til falling-apart-soft (you can also bake the whole piece (skin on) in a 350 degree oven  on a pan with a little water til it is mushy- scrape off skin and proceed).  Add the rosemary and blend till really smooth (if you don’t have a blending device just smash it up before you add more liquid).  Add the beans- try to scoop up the onion and garlic as well.   You can add a bit of bean broth too but the soup will be murky and not orange- not that there’s anything wrong with that.  Add hot broth or even water if you’ve run out of broth (I usually do- I thaw out a yogurt container of broth from the freezer and that is never enough it seems) until it is the consistency you like it. Leave the beans whole and serve with sweet potato fries and a cucumber avocado salad (or anything you dern well want to.  Cornbread and kale would be perfect as well- we just don’t have those down here)

Sweet Potato Fries
 These should be called sweet potato bakeds because they sure ain’t fried.  I never mess with fries (real or sweet potato) because baked is even better sometimes….

-Sweet Potatoes (around one medium sized one per person- or more)
-Coconut Oil (or olive oil or lard if that’s what you have) 
-Cumin, rosemary, paprika, thyme… anything you want (or none at all)
-Salt and Pepper

Preheat oven to anywhere between 350-400 degrees (the lower if you have more time, the higher if you have less and like them crispier)


Peel the sweet potatoes and slice them into strips or chunks.  Throw them on a baking pan- make sure not to crowd or stack them because they will just get really mushy.  Drizzle oil over them, sprinkle salt and any other desired seasoning.  Mix it all together and spread the potatoes out on the pan.  If they aren’t all greased up add a little more oil.  But you don’t need too much because it will just sit there and pop all over the oven.  You do want them all the be covered though or they will just stick, burn, and/or dry up.  Bake til brown- stir them with a spatula often to keep them evenly cooking- about thirty minutes, depending on the oven temperature.